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Tips & Advice

Planting

Bare Rooted Plants

Bare rooted plants have a planting season which is from November to March. As the name suggests bare rooted plants are supplied bare rooted from the nursery without soil and have a damp material such as Lessayer or straw packed around the roots to stop them drying out.

Planting must take place in the dormant season and before the leaf buds start to break. Bare rooted plants are considerably less expensive than container grown and some species of shrubs thrive more when planted bare root.

Planting Bare Rooted Plants

When digging the hole make sure it is not too deep and too narrow, to ensure this place the plant in the hole, the old soil mask around the stem should be level with the top of the hole and no deeper. The hole should also be wide enough to allow the roots of the plant to be spread out evenly across the bottom.

It is also advisable to mix tree and shrub planting compost into the soil when planting at two part topsoil one part tree and shrub compost, mix this thoroughly in a wheelbarrow or a bucket.

Place the plant into the hole and place some soil/compost mixture around the roots then give the plant a gentle shake to allow the compost to settle around the roots and fill any voids or air pockets. Half-fill the hole with more soil/compost mixture and lightly tread, do not press too heavily as this will damage the roots, although enough so the plant is stable ad upright in it's whole. Finish by adding more soil/compost until the hole is full and tread again, after, lightly loosen the surface. The final surface level should be a very slight rise around the planted area, this will allow for any settlement.

Container Grown Plants

Plants are supplied in a wide variety of container sizes but the care and the planting is basically the same, they can be left for up to two months in their pot but they must remain watered. It is also worthwhile to support the pot to stop it being blown over.

Planting

Generally container plants can be planted at any time of the year with the exceptions of frost or drought conditions

As with bare rooted plants it is advisable to incorporate tree and shrub compost at the soil when planting, this will give the plant a good start.

Dig out a planting hole and allow for three to four inch layer of planting mixture around the root ball of the plant. The hole should be deep enough for the root ball and three inch layer of planting mixture, the root ball should also be approximately one inch below the soil surface after planting.

Remove the container or sack carefully without damaging any roots or compost, place the plant in the hole and gently tease away outer circling roots, but do not break up the root ball. Fill in the hole around the plant with the planting mixture, firm down with your hands and water it if required.

Planting Hedges

There are two ways to plant a formal hedge, single row planting or double staggered row planting depending on how deep your hedge will be. Double row planting is recommended for a thicker hedge and where screening is required.

For single row planting, mark out the line of planting and work out planting distances depending on species of plant material. For double row planting carry out the same procedure as single row, but put in another line sixteen inches running parallel with the first line. The second line of plants should be planting in between the gaps of the first line, therefore staggered. (See notes also soil improving).

Planting Bulbs

Usually autumn is the season for planting bulbs, with a few exceptions, it is better to plant your bulbs straight away after buying them. Depending on how many bulbs you are planting you can use a bulb planter or a spade, dig out the soil to the required depth and case the base of the hole with horticultural grit sand. Space out the bulbs in the hole, cover over with soil and press down lightly to rid of any air pockets. Water after planting.

Pruning

Reasons for Pruning

There are two main reasons to prune trees and shrubs. Firstly, there is the need to remove any dead or diseased material or damaged stems. Then there is the need to keep the plant in an informal or formal shape if the plant is bearing overgrown then there is also a need to remove this growth before any major pruning is needed.

The Pruning Cut

When making any pruning cuts, firstly determine what size of pruners will be required given the size of the branch to be cut, sharp tools are essential. All pruning cuts should be clean cuts and not snapped or damaged.

Always make the pruning cut above a bud with the cut being made to slope away from the bud, this allows excess water to run away and not collect between bud and stem. Always prune ¼ inch above a bud because the bus at that point in the branch will allow the branch and prevent dead or deceased wood.

Pruning Hedges

There are two types of hedge informal or formal, informal hedges are kept trimmed perhaps once a year an example would be a countryside hedge. Formal hedges are primed two to three times per year and include varieties such as Privet, Box, and Conifers etc.

Pruning Formal Hedges

After planting, a formal hedge can be cut back by one third to promote shoots at the base of the plant and will produce plenty of new shoots at the base.

On the hedges second year, clip lightly on three to four occasions between May and August.

Once the hedge has reached its full height, trimming should take place between May and August or whenever the plants look untidy.

When pruning always make sure that the top of the hedge is narrower than the base as this allows light to the base, and will not go leafless due to shade.

The correct tools are sharp shears or a hedge trimmer, start pruning at the bottom as debris will fall away from machine, and not land on the uncut hedge

Soil Improving

Plants will only grow as well as the soil allows it, and therefore improving the soil structure can be of vital importance. The most traditional method of soil digging is called double digging; this will aerate the top soil and break up the sub soil.

Using a garden fork dig out a trench the height and width of your fork, leaving the spoil along the side of the opposite side of the trench, add well rotted manure, peat or compost to the bottom of this trench, then repeat the process by digging over a trench adjacent to the first and placing the spoil into the first trench. Keep repeating this process until you have covered you area, using your first lot of spoil to fill in your final trench.

Also add four ounce of bone mad sq yards and; leave for several weeks.

Garden Mulching

Garden mulch can be described as a layer of organic material placed over the surface of the soil or around plants and trees. Mulching provides the following benefits:

  1. Weeds are significally reduced.
  2. Good soil moisture retention in the summer.
  3. Adding humus improves the soil texture.
  4. Extra plant foods can be provided.
  5. Soil temperature is kept higher in the winter, reducing frost penetration.

Suitable mulching materials are:

  1. Moist peat
  2. Well-rotted manure
  3. Tree and shrub compost
  4. Bark

Plant Troubles

A few tips on how to avoid planting problems in your garden.

Buy good healthy plants: Check that there is a healthy root system and strong healthy stems.

Good preparation: Prepare ground thoroughly before placing plants in partly drained soils will get root rot. (See soil improving)

Avoid overcrowding: Check the correct planting distances for plants diseases can spread earlier if plants are planted too close.

Careful selection and planting co-ordination: Ensure that the plants you are buying are not too tender for you climate and are planted in the correct location for soil and light conditions.

Regular inspection: Keep a regular check on plants for pests and diseases and catch any problems early.

 

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